How to make more barrels.

 

 Front-side Barrel Riding
Your first priority when it comes to getting shacked is getting into the wave as early as possible. The earlier you’re able to get up on your board, the more time you’ll have to set your feet, eye a good line and set up for the oncoming tube section. Here's how to do it...

1) Paddle hard – really hard. Dig, scrape, and put your paddling into overdrive as you work to get into the wave. Remember, the sooner you’re up and riding, the easier time you’ll have finding the barrel. 

2) As soon as you make it to your feet, keep your eyes focused down the line. Set your inside rail and execute an appropriate drop. Your drop will depend on what the wave is doing; if the wave is pitching immediately after takeoff, you’ll probably want to do a diminished bottom turn (or none at all) in order to tuck under the lip. If the wave is pitching out in front, a longer bottom turn may help you shoot into the barrel section with speed. 

3) Adjust your speed. Stall if you need to slow down and let the lip catch up. A kick-stall or a hand-stall will allow you to stay in synch with the wave. If the wave is pitching down the line, pump to gain speed. Once under the lip, it’s important to remember not to stop surfing. Keep adjusting your speed to stay high and tight in the tube. 

4) Find an exit. If the wave is closing out in front of you, break through the “doggy door.” 

Don't you wish you were here right now.

 Back-side Barrel Riding
 This is decidedly more difficult than the front side approach because you’re not facing the wave, so you really have to be in tune with exactly how the wave is breaking in order to successfully ride the barrel. 

1) As with the front side approach, paddle hard and get into the wave as early as possible. 

2) Set your rail, and decide what kind of bottom turn you’ll need to execute, if any. If you need to tuck into a tight barrel, or if you need to stall, try the pig dog stance. Drop your back knee and place your back hand on the outside rail for balance.

3) Adjust your speed as needed. Do small pumps if you need to increase speed, and use a stall method, such as the hand or kick stall, in order to slow down. 

4) Find an exit, and continue surfing. 

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